Some raw software does not apply the gain. Thanks, John, for this and some other interesting pieces you have written on the Fuji settings for optimising dynamic range. The dr200% raw file is digitally pushed by 2 stop in most raw software. If this is right, it is never really possible, once you shot a picture at DR200%, to really undo that and go back to the exposure that would have been obtained by shooting at DR100%…. So, three clicks is one stop. I’ve been blown away with the “ISO invariant” sensor. Godox +1 I actually didn’t bring up Dynamic Range Priority at all in this article. Any other Base Characteristics Curve ignores it an there’s no way to just apply the DR setting. Your link has been automatically embedded. So if you’re only capturing RAW, using a high DR setting can help give you an idea of how much you’ll be able to recover in post-processing. On my Fuji X-100V I have the ISO dial on C as well. Custom Settings X100v. So am I correct to assume that, by switching from DR100% to DR200%, the exposure (only the aperture/speed parameters) of my RAW file will be affected ? I would suggest comparing some photos with different DR settings, importing them into each program with different profiles & base characteristics to see what the differences are for each. It’s always left me puzzled and I have mostly seen articles where it’s suggested not to use the DR settings. When I press the front wheel, I can change the exposure (+/-). Paste as plain text instead, × It’ll give you the highest contrast out of the DR settings because it doesn’t change the tone curve at all. 1. Hi John, first of all thank you for this explanation. In most cases, you should expose for the shadows (“to the right”) when using D-Rng. With the X100V you gain an incredibly capable machine that can keep up with any of your autofocus demands. As I understand it, and that’s not claiming much, the lower the ISO the better the dynamic range. The Dynamic Range setting is not the same as Dynamic Range Priority found in the X-H1 and X-T3/30. Because the ISO output is lowered, you’ll need a higher ISO when using Fujifilm’s Dynamic Range. You can only get your camera’s D-Rng setting applied if you hit “Auto” for the tonal adjustments. But the RAW file itself is as the sensor captured it, not what the processor did to it.”, That’s wrong. But I wonder what I should be shooting at when taking street shots and do not have the time to make these adjustments ‘on the fly’. It is a much more complex process to merge dark, bright, and middle exposures to come up with one final photo with low contrast and increased tonal range. This is a good way to get some blue back in an otherwise bright sky, for example. Just choose which one is more important to you (shadows or highlights) and expose for that. Cheers. Your RAW converter may or may not read the camera settings metadata and apply corrections on import. HDR – High Dynamic Range – blends multiple photos of different exposures. if you reply…..so what is the advantage of using DR when capturing in RAW, in M or using EC with A or S priority exposure mode. “200% is available at sensitivities of from ISO 320 to ISO 12800, X400% at sensitivities of from ISO 640 to 12800.” The ISO value is written to RAW. If one or two stops of aperture or shutter speed change matter that much to your creative intent, you can try offsetting it by adjusting your “other” variable (stopping down your aperture to regain a slower shutter speed, etc). In this case, I would then have to set the DR to 400% and the ISO to at least 800, and the photo shall be taken at the original exposure (i.e. If DR200 appeared too flat for you (unlikely), you can pull it down to DR100 in the Q menu. But the thing is, the whole point of the DR200% mode is to preserve highlights that have been blowed in my first picture at DR100%. I’ve used numerous RAW converters that present the RAW file differently based on the in-camera D-Rng setting. With my Fuji X-T4, when the ISO dial is on C, I can use the front wheel to go through all the ISO settings from ISO 160 up to to ISO High 12800 and all the three ISO auto settings. No one looking at your photos is going to notice an increase in noise from 160 to 320. So no, it doesn’t affect the RAW file, but yes, it can affect how the RAW converter processes the file, depending on the converter. Fujifilm Dynamic Range uses only one single photo and is a much simpler process. If your habit is to always shoot at a low ISO with a histogram bunched up on the left, planning to push it in post-processing, you’re not giving LR/PS much data to work with. The jpg had digital gain applied in the hardware of the camera. “Most” articles recommend not to use these settings because “most” articles assume that people are shooting in RAW. *Edit – this answer appears to be based on the RAW converter. It is fairly complicated and is definitely more along the lines of “personal style” and taste. If you’re at ISO160 and DR Auto, all you’ll get is DR 100. Meaning, if parts of the scene are super-bright and washed out, it will underexpose the scene to keep the bright areas from appearing pure white. And, it looks like ISO Auto is not the way to go. While I mostly use the Raw files, I do occasionally use Jpegs straight from the camera. A rather important detail.
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